We’re always very impressed and intrigued by the singularity of Thierry Beclair’s whites. However, among his peers, he is most revered for his reds. This Cabernet Franc goes against the grain—and against the current unfashionability of dusty, concentrated, earthy, overly oaked wines made from the variety. It’s juicy, salty, and light. Red fruits express through a tart acidity; think slightly stewed rhubarb stems. There’s some earthiness, but in a bright, springlike, floral form. The 2023 vintage is one of the best of recent years for light reds. A wine that’s so much fun to age over the next ten years. No sulfur added.