AOC Arbois-Pupillin. From vines around Pupillin, in the Jura’s belt of marl and limestone, this is Chardonnay under its old local alias, Melon à Queue Rouge. Grapes are hand-picked, destemmed and pressed after a short skin maceration, then fermented with indigenous yeast in foudre at controlled temperature, with malolactic fermentation left to run its course. Twelve months’ maturation in foudre follows. Bottled without filtration or fining, and with no added SO2. Made for drinking rather than to age.