Patrick Bouju and Justine Loiseau’s estate Chardonnay from Domaine la Bohème in Auvergne, grown on clay-limestone soils in Saint-Georges-sur-Allier from vines aged 35-60 years. Organic, native yeast fermentation, aged in oak barrel. Zero SO2, unfined, unfiltered.

At a 2022 Amsterdam tasting, Bouju challenged us to hold his wines at least three years, saying his real wines only appeared once primary fruit had settled. This Chardonnay proves his point: five years on, the oak has fully integrated, revealing stone fruit, hazelnut, beeswax and a long saline, volcanic finish. A rare white that earns its age.