Bertrand Gautherot planted this Chardonnay in 2000 at Biaunes, a cold, west-facing slope of Kimmeridgian clay and limestone in the Aube, the same rock as Chablis. Cuttings from Selosse and Dauvissat. Biodynamic, fermented in old barrels with a little amphora, no dosage, all from the 2019 harvest. The ageing in agnum slows the clock: seven years on, it is only now starting to show.