Troppo Spring Cellar List
What is new at Troppo?
While we are still eagerly waiting for the reopening of restaurants, life is still full of stay-at-home dinners. Small sized gatherings and the ambient boredom have drawn us to pull more and more special bottles from our cellar.
Some of you might have noticed our digital consignment of some of the more incredible wines on the list at BAK restaurant, one of our close collaborators.
Troppo started collecting wines in 2016 and kept a bit of a habit of hoarding. The foundation of our business was to give time to the wine, the same way winemakers give time to their vines.
We decided it was time to release some of those slightly older bottles through this newsletter to our better clients since our official shop opening at the end of 2021.
Thank you for sharing the same passion for wine that moves Troppo!
Noteworthy wines of the List
St-Aubin 1er Cru “En Remilly” 2015 by Dominique Derain
Rajat Parr wrote in his 2018 book The Sommelier’s Atlas of Wine :
“ The vineyards to know are En Remilly, Les Murgers des Dents de Chien (‘wall of dog’s teeth,” referring to old jagged stone walls), and La Chatenière. It is cool up there, and in warm vintages (2009, 2015), these wines can be amazing. They’re largely the same soils as the great Grand Crus of Puligny, but thinner and more exposed.”
A simply delicious wine from a pioneer of both biodynamics and natural winemaking of the Côte d’Or: Dominique Derain. Now retired, this is surely one his last great wines. Razorsharp minerality, powerful and with the signature energy that moves Dominique Derain’s wines.
Trésor d’Aiglepierre “Echarde” 2004 and 2005 by Jean-Marc Brignot.
Made from parcels behind Montigny-les-Arsures, cradle of Trousseau in the Jura. These are two relics of Jean-Marc Brignot’s work in the Jura. Soil work was non-existent and grapes left to fight and thrive for themselves. We have both a Chardonnay and a Savagnin, both 10 years sous-voile. Jean Marc Brignot now runs a wine bar in Japan and gained the nickname amongst local Jura winemakers “The Shooting Star of Jura”.
Azienda Agricola Barbacarlo – Montebueno and Barbacarlo.
We visited Lino Maga in 2017 and were astonished at both his approach to wine – uncompromised and raw – and the vertical depth of his cellar. We managed to purchase almost 10 vintages of both his wines which are not almost impossible to find. Lino Makes sees wines as an expression of the vintage and in that sense will not adapt his winemaking to the year’s climate. Some wines end up with a fizz even after 15 years in the bottle! We recommend trying the wines in a pair of both cuvées: Barbacarlo is the more animal and sturdy wine, while Montebueno is lighter and more elegant.
Croix Sarrant 2018 by François Rousset-Martin
A chardonnay from a parcel just down left of the beautiful Savagnin of Château-Chalon. François is definitely a minimalist in his work: Old barrels, deep old cellars and time. This Chardonnay is one of my favourite wines. Don’t hesitate to reach out if you have questions about the many other cuvées of François.
Pinot, Trousseau, Poulsard by Jean-François Ganevat.
Whereas the whites of Ganevat have now reached a stellar reputation, thanks to their stylistic associability to the wines of its Burgundy neighbours, the reds are in our opinion still very much under-appreciated. They are salty and full of life, results of years of experience and very precise work in the vineyard, during harvest and in the cellar. No sulfur, just pleasure.
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