When Hungary won exclusive use of the name Tokaj, Friulano growers lost the right to mention “Tocai” on their labels. Dario spelled it backwards. Jakot is Friulano from vines around 60 years old. It spends about three weeks on skins in open vats, then two and a half years or more in oak. With age, the cuvée Jakot begins to evolve from fresh citrus to candied fruit peel, dried apricot and a nutty depth. It stays salty, with a long, persistent finish.